Suzuki 4x4: How to Modify Suzuki 4x4 for serious off-road action (Suzuki 4x4 - jak zmodyfikować do trudnej jazdy w terenie) - John Richardson, język angielski, Veloce Publishing 2017, 128 str, format 20,7x25 cm, 175 kolorowych zdjęć, miękka oprawa, waga 0,50 kg
            - poradnik umożliwiający poprawienie własności terenowych samochodów Suzuki LJ80, SJ410 i Santana, Samurai i SJ413, Vitara, Grand Vitara, Jimny (1978-2000 r.), jazda w terenie, modyfikacje, dane techniczne, kontakty (dostawcy części, kluby)
            - spis treści:
1.Introduction - Evolution
 2.Principles of Modification
 3.Skills Required
 4.LJ, SJ410 & Santana
 5.Samurai & SJ413
 6.Vitara & X90
 7.Grand Vitara
 8.Jimny
 9.Specials
 10.Tyres
 11.Ancillaries
 12.List of suppliers
 13.Glossary of Terms
 14. Index
- zajrzyj_do_książki

            - streszczenie:
Anyone who owns a Suzuki 4x4, and wonders what it is REALLY capable of, needs this book. It illustrates in intimate detail, with the aid of 175 colour photographs and diagrams, what each model can do and how to modify it in stages to maximise its off-road potential. The book also covers practical factors, such as choice of tyres, gearing selection and modification for various purposes. In addition, it explores the history and evolution of the marque and sets out the skills required to carry out the various procedures. As ever, this is presented in the well illustrated, easy to follow SpeedPro style. Get the most out of your Suzuki 4x4.
Principles of Modification
All vehicle design is a compromise, and any modifications undertaken merely bias the compromise towards a particular aspect. For example, if you wish to race a saloon car you would have to significantly lower and increase the stiffness of the suspension to allow the vehicle to cope with cornering at high speed. However, this would have the effect of introducing harshness into the ride. Therefore, you have shifted the ratio from comfort towards handling for speed.
Off-road modification is no exception. Whether you wish to just potter about on easy green lanes with the family at weekends, immerse yourself in gallons of mud, or roar up Pike’s Peak at breakneck speed, will determine the type and severity of the modifications you need to undertake.
Suzuki 4x4s were designed originally to provide a cheap, go-anywhere vehicle for Japan and the developing countries in Asia. The fact that they caught on in the West as an iconic lifestyle vehicle meant the designers had to rethink elements of the design to accommodate its new usage. These were mostly cosmetic initially, but eventually a wider stance, more power, softer suspension, and fashionable paintwork would all be included to boost sales in the West.
This book is primarily designed to allow you to determine what level of modification you need to achieve the performance you want. It will then help to decide whether to undertake these modifications yourself, by manufacturing and fitting your own parts, or source a supplier for the parts or to do the whole build for you, depending on your level of ability. For ease of reference there follows a description of the general principles of modification together with sections covering the usual usages to help you decide which is right for you.

            - przykładowy fragment tekstu:
General principles
Unless you are engaged in some form of off-road racing, it’s safe to say there are only eight ways that your 4x4 will be brought to a stop:

1. Loss of traction due to slipping tyres
2. Loss of traction due to bottoming out
3. Cross-axling
4. Insufficient ramp breakover angle
5. Insufficient approach or departure angle
6. Mechanical failure or accident (i.e. breaking or hitting something)
7. Rolling over
8. Being submerged

Although it is highly likely you’ll encounter one of the first five, changing the tyres will alleviate all five of these factors. Simply fitting larger radius tyres will raise the axles, chassis and bodywork and thus the ground clearance. This will assist with items 2-5 and, if you take the opportunity to fit more aggressive tread patterns as well, then the chances of item 1 occurring will also be decreased. The trade-off is that the propensity for item 7 to occur may be slightly increased. If, as is likely, the tyres are also wider, then the chances of rolling over will be significantly reduced, and fitting wheel spacers will reduce this even further.
It is possible to fit slightly larger, more aggressively-patterned tyres on standard rims and leave it at that, but although the gains are considerable, for a lot of people this is merely the start of a journey of modification that ends only when the money runs out. Also, the original bodywork will limit your choice of tyres.
This brings us to our next area for modification; the suspension. There are two basic types of suspension on Suzuki four-wheel drives; leaf sprung suspension and coil sprung suspension. This can be further broken down into leaf sprung live axle, coil sprung live axle and coil sprung independent.
A live axle is hung from the suspension and moves up and down as the suspension rides over obstacles. An independent set-up is where the main axle housing, containing the differential, is attached to the shell of the vehicle, and the wheels are held in place by some framework, commonly called control arms, that allow them to move independently of the axle, whilst power is transmitted to the wheels by drive shafts fitted with constant velocity joints.
It’s safe to say that, generally, coil sprung suspension is superior to leaf sprung. This is true for both handling and comfort. It can be argued, however, that there is one area where this is not necessarily the case, extreme off-roading. Whilst I would not suggest that leaf springs are superior to coils I would argue that they can be as effective, and they are easier and less expensive to maintain and modify.
It is also possible that, under certain conditions, an independently sprung wheel can rise over an obstacle without raising the axle and differential, which, in turn, may then collide with an obstruction under the vehicle. With a live axle, on the other hand, everything lifts with the wheel and thus rises over the obstruction. This may be a small point but in extreme off-road, especially in rocky areas, it can be significant.

What to look for in a Vehicle
The Suzuki range contains, without doubt, some of the most competent vehicles you will encounter off-road. With their short wheelbase, ladder chassis, transfer box transmission, and light weight they are giant killers in the rough. There are now thousands of second-hand models around going for a song, which is good news for those of us who want to get muddy at the weekend, but, because of their very nature, a lot of these older vehicles have been abused and it is not unknown for them to suffer from corrosion. So, what do you look for if you’re buying a second-hand Suzuki?
Well, let’s start with the engine. If you think you’ll want to modify your vehicle at some point, then it’s best to avoid the 997cc engined varieties. SJ410s don’t have sufficient power to drive much larger tyres, and they are significantly more difficult and more expensive to modify, as their engines and transmissions aren’t compatible with the larger-engined varieties. It’s a common error amongst newcomers to the sport to think that a 1.3- or even a 1.6-litre engine will bolt straight in, they won’t. So save yourself a lot of grief and go for the bigger-engined varieties from the start. Whilst these small engines may be fine for the type of driving for which they were originally designed, they are not particularly well suited for driving at 70mph on a motorway. Subsequently, the engines can get thrashed, and if they’re not regularly serviced they will give up the ghost quite readily. Having said that, they are incredibly strong and reliable for their size, and if given a little tender loving care can take a huge amount of abuse.
The good news is that the engines are so basic that even a novice should be able to spot a bad one. For example, a rattle, other than tappet noise on the top end, is likely to be a bearing on its last legs. A cloud of smoke from the exhaust, for example, especially on start up, is probably due to worn piston rings or valve guides. Either way avoid them, there are plenty more around. Be wary if the engine has been warmed up prior to your arrival. There may be a perfectly innocent reason for this, but starting problems due to a poor automatic choke, or even little end bearing rattle, can be concealed by a warm engine. Of course, if you intend to change the engine anyway, a rattling or smoking engine can bring you a bargain vehicle.
Suzuki engines can be prone to overheating. This is usually due to the radiator matrix being blocked with mud if the vehicle has been seriously off-roaded, although it’s not unheard of for the radiator core to be blocked internally. Either way, it may need to be replaced. Caution! – never pressure wash a mud blocked radiator, as the heat dissipating fins will be bent by the force of water and block the radiator more effectively and permanently than the mud you are attempting to remove. Instead, remove and soak the radiator in a caustic radiator cleaning solution for about a week, by which time gentle washing with a hose should remove most of the dirt.
Overheating could be a sign that the cylinder head gasket has blown, a not uncommon fault on any model. Look for emulsified oil in the oil filler cap, pressurisation of the cooling system, or a rough-running engine. Installing a new cylinder head gasket is not a huge job, but you must ensure you have the new gasket the right way up. It’s possible to fit the gasket upside down, which will result in a severely restricted oil flow to the camshaft.
Alternators and starters can also be a problem if they’ve been subjected to deep water, but as a rule they are generally reliable. Oil leaks are something to look out for; oil dripping from the base of the bellhousing, for example, could indicate a faulty crankshaft seal, which is a bit of a job to repair, though it’s more likely to be either the rear of the rocker cover housing, where the gasket has blown, or the distributor gasket, check for this by tracking the oil back to its source. Neither are huge jobs, but should all be reflected in the price.
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